Chapter 2: Lawn Fertilization.
Fertilization Made Easy
Fertilization is a major part of maintaining a healthy lawn. Without fertilization, we may get a green lawn, but there's no way we can get it as unnaturally thick as we like to see it.
Let's talk types.
In a nutshell, we have three different main types of fertilizer.
Liquid fertilizer- Very effective for restoring a stressed area. Not effective for the entire lawn or long term results. You guessed it! It washes away.The benefits last 5-7 days.
Quick release granular- The package may not say "quick release" but if it doesn't say "slow release", this is what you're looking at. A rapid release granular fertilizer carries a benefit of 14-20 days. Not ideal for entire plots as it would need to be applied far too often. Also, it is VERY easy to burn your lawn with a rapid release. This is the type we usually see on sale for "a really good price".
Slow release granular- The ideal fertilizer for plots of turf grass. Slow release carries a benefit of up to 6 weeks. Almost no risk of burning your lawn. John Deere makes a good line.
Five simple applications.
Early Spring-Wake it up!!! High nitrogen, slow release, granular. No risk of burning the lawn when it's cold and rainy. Pour on the nitrogen and start the year with the greenest lawn on the block! Should be applied right when you start to see green.
Late spring-The transition. Reduce Nitrogen content by half. Also start iron with this application. Again, it's rainy and not too hot yet, pour on the nitrogen to boost blade production, and start iron to begin strengthening crowns for the summer heat. This application should be applied when the soil temp, one inch beneath the surface, reaches 51 degrees. We'll talk about why in the "weed control" section.
Early summer-
Balance it out. A balanced granular is needed for early summer to promote taproot growth that happens during the summer heat. Also continue iron with this application to fully prepare the crowns. This application should go down 6 weeks after the late spring treatment.
Late summer-Don't fertilize. You will probably burn your yard.
Early fall-Continue with balanced fertilizer. Stop the iron. Cut nitrogen in half again.
A balanced fertilizer is going to continue to strengthen the roots. Cut the iron, as the crowns are as big as they need to be. With the days getting shorter, some nitrogen is needed for the blades to recover from the heat, but we don't want too much blade production this time of year. Cut it in half again. Generally, I do this application after the first good rain in august.
Late fall-The blades will begin to go dormant. The crowns will dry out. The feeder roots will freeze. We ar left with a taproot. It will continue to grow RAPIDLY, if it is fertilized. Balanced fert. Cut Nitrogen in half again (as a small amount is needed for the taproot to grow as quickly as it wants to.) Apply when the tops start going dormant. (brown patches)
And that's fertilization!
Let's talk types.
In a nutshell, we have three different main types of fertilizer.
Liquid fertilizer- Very effective for restoring a stressed area. Not effective for the entire lawn or long term results. You guessed it! It washes away.The benefits last 5-7 days.
Quick release granular- The package may not say "quick release" but if it doesn't say "slow release", this is what you're looking at. A rapid release granular fertilizer carries a benefit of 14-20 days. Not ideal for entire plots as it would need to be applied far too often. Also, it is VERY easy to burn your lawn with a rapid release. This is the type we usually see on sale for "a really good price".
Slow release granular- The ideal fertilizer for plots of turf grass. Slow release carries a benefit of up to 6 weeks. Almost no risk of burning your lawn. John Deere makes a good line.
Five simple applications.
Early Spring-Wake it up!!! High nitrogen, slow release, granular. No risk of burning the lawn when it's cold and rainy. Pour on the nitrogen and start the year with the greenest lawn on the block! Should be applied right when you start to see green.
Late spring-The transition. Reduce Nitrogen content by half. Also start iron with this application. Again, it's rainy and not too hot yet, pour on the nitrogen to boost blade production, and start iron to begin strengthening crowns for the summer heat. This application should be applied when the soil temp, one inch beneath the surface, reaches 51 degrees. We'll talk about why in the "weed control" section.
Early summer-
Balance it out. A balanced granular is needed for early summer to promote taproot growth that happens during the summer heat. Also continue iron with this application to fully prepare the crowns. This application should go down 6 weeks after the late spring treatment.
Late summer-Don't fertilize. You will probably burn your yard.
Early fall-Continue with balanced fertilizer. Stop the iron. Cut nitrogen in half again.
A balanced fertilizer is going to continue to strengthen the roots. Cut the iron, as the crowns are as big as they need to be. With the days getting shorter, some nitrogen is needed for the blades to recover from the heat, but we don't want too much blade production this time of year. Cut it in half again. Generally, I do this application after the first good rain in august.
Late fall-The blades will begin to go dormant. The crowns will dry out. The feeder roots will freeze. We ar left with a taproot. It will continue to grow RAPIDLY, if it is fertilized. Balanced fert. Cut Nitrogen in half again (as a small amount is needed for the taproot to grow as quickly as it wants to.) Apply when the tops start going dormant. (brown patches)
And that's fertilization!
